DUSTING
OFF THE DECADES:
CARING
FOR YOUR TREASURES FROM HOME
Presented by
Janette Garcia
The University
of Texas-Pan American Library
Special
Collections and Archives
Documents help
us remember the past and are important clues to the history of a region, an
organization, a family, and an individual.
Protecting and preserving historical books, documents, photos and other
materials is each generation’s responsibility.
If the materials
might be of interest to future researchers consider talking to an archivist
about donating your documents to an archives.
THE
BASICS
·
Always handle with care.
·
Wash
and dry hands thoroughly and often.
·
Remove
jewelry
·
Don’t
use lotion before handling items.
·
Wearing
clean cotton gloves can prevent oils and dirt from your fingers transferring to
items.
·
Work
on a clean, flat surface.
·
Clean
items with a soft brush.
·
Only
brush off what is easily removed.
·
Do
not try to remove stains.
GENERAL
ENVIRONMENT: TEMPERATURE, HUMIDITY, AND LIGHT
The single most
important decision you can make to protect your treasured items is by selecting
an appropriate location
Store items in an environmentally controlled area, such as the main part
of the house, not an attic, garage, or storage shed.
•
Mold
and insects are attracted to warm, humid, and dirty conditions.
•
Fluctuating
temperatures and humidity and light can cause internal and external damage to
items.
•
If
you must store in a garage or attic, place the items in plastic tubs or bins
and ensure that lids are secured tightly.
LIGHT
DAMAGE
Light damage is cumulative and irreversible, it will continue after the
source of the damage has been removed.
•
Light
can cause fading and deterioration to inks and papers.
•
Some
colors fade differently than others, effectively changing the impact of the
picture.
•
Ultraviolet
light comes from sunlight and fluorescent lights and is particularly
damaging.
•
Try not to place objects in front of windows where
they will receive the most sunlight.
•
Ultraviolet
light can cause fibers in the paper to
break into smaller and smaller units until they are so short they can no longer
maintain the bonds necessary to hold the paper together.
•
Some papers bleach under the action of light; some
turn "yellow" and some darken.
TEMPERATURE
AND RELATIVE HUMIDITY
Ideal temperature: 68ºf
Ideal relative humidity: 40%
Less than 10% fluctuation in 24 hours
•
The warmer the air, the more water-vapor it can
hold. As air cools down, its capacity to hold water will decrease. Relative humidity is a measure of the amount
of the amount of water-vapor contained in air at a particular temperature.
•
Areas with high humidity attract mold, insects, and
rodents.
•
High
humidity hastens acidic deterioration.
•
Paper, parchment, leather and the adhesives used in
bookbinding normally contain moisture, and will deteriorate rapidly with too
much or too little humidity, or with widely fluctuating temperature
•
Dehumidifiers
will help keep the moisture out of the air.
TEMPERATURE
AND RELATIVE HUMIDITY: MOLD
Mold grows if
temperature is over 70° F and
humidity is over 60% for more than 24 hours
•
Mold
will grow on any material that can provide nutriment, such as glue, leather and
paper.
•
Mold
digests and breaks down the materials they feed on causing foxing and staining,
and weakening the structures.
•
Mold
starts out looking like whitish patches or a gray dusty look on book covers and
documents, which later may become brownish or greenish in color and often in
circular patterns.
•
Mold
spores remain suspended in the air until they find suitable conditions for
their growth.
TEMPERATURE,
RELATIVE HUMIDITY, AND CLEANLINESS: PESTS
The best pesticide is prevention
Pests such as
bugs and sometimes rodents are often attracted to warm, humid, and dirty or
dusty conditions.
•
Keep
area clean, dry, cool, and well-ventilated.
•
Keep
food away from the items and storage areas.
Bugs attracted to food may start eating books and papers when the food
is gone.
•
Books,
papers, leather and adhesives are made of natural products such as proteins,
starches, and carbohydrates which are attractive to some insects.
•
Use
plastic containers such as Tupperware and Rubbermaid to store items instead of
cardboard boxes and newspaper stuffing.
•
Look
for evidence of live and dead insects at least semi-annually.
•
In
many cases adult insects choose locations to lay eggs which will provide food
for their young
•
Look
for insect damage such as thin areas, small holes, or ragged edges.
•
Silverfish,
carpet beetles and booklice graze across the surface leaving a subtle
skinning of paper and a general shabby look.
•
Termites
and bookworms burrow or tunnel through papers.
•
Cockroaches
eat the starch, mold, and proteins, and stain materials with their droppings.
•
The
helpful predators: spiders, centipedes and geckos do not harm objects, and are
predators of insects which do.
WHAT TO DO IF
THE BUGS FIND YOUR TREASURES
First, place the
object in a plastic bag and seal it. This will prevent the insects from
spreading
Never spray
pesticides directly on your treasures, the array of chemicals in these
products could stain or discolor your object irreparably.
1.
Some
objects can be frozen. This is a very effective way of killing adults,
larvae and eggs.
a.
Freeze objects which
are made up of one material, such as wood, paper, or wool
b.
Do not freeze objects
which are made up of layers of materials such as photographs and paintings. The
different layers may freeze differently causing disruption or buckling.
2.
Wrap
the object in a sheet, towel or some other type of absorbent material.
This material will collect any condensation.
3.
Place
the wrapped object in a plastic bag, press the air out of the bag, and seal
the bag tightly.
4.
Place
the bagged object directly into a freezer for at least two weeks.
Self-defrosting freezers should be avoided because they are very dry, and
don't maintain a steady temperature as they cycle.
5.
When
you remove the object from the freezer, leave it in the bag and wrap it
in towels or blankets so that it will reach room temperature slowly over a
period of several hours.
6.
Some
bugs can hibernate in the cold, as soon as the items reach room temperature and
the bugs are just coming out of hibernation mode – refreeze and begin the
process again.
STORAGE
"Archival"
is not a standardized term. A
manufacturer may put the term “archival” on anything, regardless if it will
help protect your treasure or harm it over the long term.
When
shopping look for the following terms:
•
Acid-free:
a neutral ph level of 7.0 or above
•
Buffered
or calcium-carbonate buffering or alkali reserve: an alkaline buffering which
helps counteract the natural acidity found in certain materials such as paper.
•
Lignin-free:
lignin is naturally occurring material found in wood pulp such as paper and
cardboard. Lignin may release acids over
time, turning the paper or board acidic.
•
Inert
plastics such as polypropylene, polyester, polyethylene, Melinex® , and Mylar™
•
PAT
(photographic activity test) is an American National Standards Institute (ANSI)
test that determines whether or not a storage material will cause fading or
staining in photographs.
•
Do
not buy PVC or polyvinyl-chloride plastic
•
Hint:
if it has a smell to it, don’t use it.
This means that it is off-gassing, and the gasses may have a harmful
interaction with your treasured item.
What’s stronger? If
something is going to tear – will it be the letter you want to save or the
tape, rubber band, or staple you put on it?
Reversibility: if it's not reversible, don't do it. Technology may change or you may change your
mind how you store it.
Identify your items with names, dates and other information. The more you write about ‘Tia Maria’ the more
future generations will know about her.
•
Always use pencil. Pencil may be erased and it will not
fade.
•
Write
the information on the folder or a separate piece of paper and include with the
item. You may label the back of
photographs with soft lead pencil.
•
Never use pen, it is
irreversible and may fade over time.
•
Never
use tape, including ‘archival’ tape, it is irreversible and stronger than the paper
it is supposed to protect.
•
Never
laminate: it is irreversible and uses harmful chemicals which prematurely age your
documents.
•
Never
use sticky labels or post-it notes. They
may come off and leave a sticky residue on your item.
•
Remove
rubber bands, they can dry and adhere to the papers around it.
•
Staples
and paperclips may rust or tear the paper around it.
•
If
you want to protect from light damage use a paper folder or envelope.
•
If
you want easy access, and less handling of the original item, use a clear
polyester envelope.
•
Make
sure all boxes are sealed against pests
BOOKS
Books are meant
to be read and not simply stored on a shelf as a museum piece. Careful storage
and handling of books can prevent costly repair, rebinding and replacement.
·
Don't
bend the pages back or push the book down flat on a table or photocopier. This strains the binding and may cause pages
to fall out.
·
Use
only paper bookmarks, rather than metal or leather, which will tear or stain
the pages.
·
Avoid
storing newspaper clippings, flowers, letters, or other miscellaneous material
in books as they leave stains and stress the binding.
·
Books
are designed to stand upright on shelves, supported on each side. Don't let
books lean at an angle as that places stress on the spine and joints
·
Don't
pack books so tightly you can't easily pull them out.
·
Don't
pull a book by its headcap, instead push in the adjoining books to grab the
spine
·
Don’t
let books hang over the edge
·
Don't
push books back all the way to the back of the book case as this inhibits
airflow and can provide pockets for mold to begin to grow.
·
Lay
large oversized books on their sides
·
Particularly
rare or fragile books may be placed in an enclosure such as an polyester
jackets, envelopes or book box made of acid-free, lignin-free materials
·
Don’t
pack or shelve books fore edge down as this position suspends the entire weight
of the book from its joints and pulls the text block out of its cover.
·
In
the past, leather books were often oiled to improve their feel and appearance.
Unfortunately this can also cause stains, make the leather sticky, and degrade
paper. Recent tests have shown that dressings are only cosmetic and do nothing
to prolong the life of the leather.
PAPERS
Paper has a
"memory." If it has been
folded or rolled a long time, it wants to stay that way
·
Store
papers unfolded as paper tends to tear where it has been folded a long time.
·
High
heat and moisture accelerate the chemical processes that result in
embrittlement and discoloration to the paper.
·
If
it is too large, wrap a tube such as a mailing tube in acid-free, buffered
paper, and wrap the document around it. This prevents you from rolling it
too tightly, and protects it from accidentally crushing or bending.
NEWSPAPERS
Newspaper paper
is the least archival, most acidic paper generally found in households.
·
Keep
newspapers and clippings from touching other paper items, as the acid will
migrate to the adjoining papers, turning them brown as well.
·
If
you are keeping the newspaper for the information either make a photocopy or
scan and print it on acid-free paper.
·
If
you are keeping the newspaper as an artifact, such as a front page of an
important day, it is best to place it in an envelope to prevent acid-migration
to other papers.
PHOTOGRAPHS, ALBUMS, and DISPLAYS
Photographs
consist of layers. Modern photos have 3
layers: the paper base, the binder
layer, and the image layer. All three
layers must be maintained.
·
Handle
your photographs and negatives by their edges and with clean hands
·
The
best way to store photographs are flat in folders, pockets, or in albums.
·
Film-based
negatives, which can produce acidic gasses as they age, should be stored
separately.
·
If
the paper layer gets wet, it will buckle.
·
If
a photograph is placed in PVC plastic, it may adhere to the plastic
·
Consider
scanning and printing the photographs that you most want to display or pass around. Keep the original in a PAT tested box or
envelope. Don’t rely on the
scanned/printed copy for long-term use. Printer
inks fade, and computer hardware and software changes.
Albums allow you
to organize and label photos, keep them safe from light damage, and provide an
easy way to view the photos.
·
Use
PAT tested photo corners, or polyester mounting strips or sleeves or photo
pocket pages.
·
Do
not use acetate sleeves, self-adhesive album or scrapbook pages. These all have chemicals that will harm your
photos over time.
·
Do
not use tape (even archival), glue, or rubber cement. They are irreversible and may seep into your
photo or leave sticky residues, attracting dirt and causing photos to stick
together.
Display a
copy. This will keep the original safe
from light damage and water leaks.
·
If
displaying the original, use a UV filtered glass and ensure it does not receive
direct sunlight or fluorescent light
·
Rotate
images to prevent fading.
·
Choose
acid-free mat board and spacers. Attach
the photo to the mat board with photo corners or strips.
·
Use
acid-free spacer to keep the photo away from the glass so that it will not
stick to it. If the glass ever gets wet, it will keep the water away from your
artwork.
TECHNOLOGY
≠ LONGEVITY
·
Books
and the printed word have been around for at least three thousand years. Clay tablets, rolls, or parchments from
thousands of years ago are still easily legible today without special equipment
·
Photography
has been around since 1830 and are still easily viewed today without special
equipment
·
Phonographs
were invented in 1877. Other audio
formats include 8 track tapes, audio-cassette tapes, compact discs, mini discs,
and digital audio tapes all of which require their own special equipment.
·
Betamax
and VHS were both created in the 1970s. Other
video formats include ¼” to 2” tapes and discs including laser discs and DVDs,
all of which require their own special equipment.
·
The
8” floppy disk was invented in 1971, replaced by the 5 ¼” in 1976, then
replaced by the 3 ½” disk in 1981, then replaced by recordable CDs and DVDs
including CD-R, CD+R, and CD-RW, zip drives, and USB memory sticks, all of
which require their own special equipment.
·
You
probably recognize pdf, html, txt, doc, and xls formats. What about
mcw, wri, wpd, wk4, wps, sam, rft, wsd? How old are these formats? If you had a file saved in this format, how
long many years would you be able to access it?
AN OUNCE OF
PREVENTION IS WORTH A POUND OF CURE
Prepare for every
emergency, from a leaky pipe to a hurricane.
·
Store
negatives or copies separately from the originals and prints, so that if
something happens to one copy, you have another copy elsewhere.
·
Review
your insurance policy to determine what it will and will not cover, document
what you have by taking photos or scanning the items.
·
Conservators
are specially trained in repairing different archival and museum materials for
a fee. If you feel your treasures are
worth the money, gather names and contact information for conservators before
you need them.
·
Remember,
no piece of paper or photograph is worth your life.
WATER DAMAGE: 48
HOURS TO RESPOND BEFORE MOLD GROWS
From leaky pipes
to fire to hurricanes, the most likely damage of materials that can be
recovered will be from water damage.
·
The
most likely result of water damage is mold.
·
Do
not store your treasures under sinks or near water sources
·
Store
your treasures at least 4” off the ground for normal flooding. If you live in a flood-prone area, store them
higher, or perhaps give them to a friend or family member in a higher location
when flooding is likely, such as in the event of a hurricane.
·
In
the event or possibility of leaky roofs and pipes: cover your treasures in
plastic sheeting, remove them from rooms likely to get water damage.
·
Freeze
or dry the documents within 48 hours to prevent mold growth.
·
If
the items are already soaked, and dirty you can gently rinse them off with
clear cold water
WATER DAMAGE:
BOOKS
Freezing will
stabilize the books until you have time to care for them or contact a
conservator. If your books are very wet
or valuable, or you have too many to dry at once, freezing is best. To freeze books wrap them in wax paper and
place in water-proof containers and place in the freezer.
1.
Air
dry if you have enough space to lay everything out, and the books are not
soaked.
2.
Wet
paper is very fragile so handle the books gently.
3.
Fan
books open and stand on driest edge first as it is the strongest; never stand
them on the front edge.
4.
Place
sheets of paper towel between the front and back cover and every few pages.
5.
Replace
paper towel when it is wet.
6.
As
the book dries turn it upside-down to the opposite edge every few hours.
7.
Get
good air flow in the room through the use of fans, turn the air conditioner low
and use a dehumidifier if you have one.
8.
Once
dry, place them flat with a weight on top to minimize warping.
9.
Check
often for mold.
1.
Glossy
paper (such as found in magazines and art books) is very sensitive to water.
2.
The
pages must be separated while the book is still wet, otherwise they will stick
to each other and tear when you try to separate them.
3.
Interleave
each sheet with dry paper.
4.
Keep
replacing the interleaving paper until the pages no longer cling to each other.
WATER DAMAGE: PHOTOGRAPHS
and FRAMED PHOTOGRAPHS
1.
Do
not freeze photographs. The different
layers in the photograph will freeze differently, leaving it buckled and warped.
2.
Air
dry face up.
3.
Do
not touch the image.
1.
Place
the framed photographs glass-side down and remove the backing materials.
2.
Carefully
remove object and air-dry face-up.
3.
If
the object is stuck to the glass, do not remove; instead dry frame with object
inside, glass side down on a flat surface.
HELPFUL WEBSITES
Preservation
risk calculator based on temperature and relative humidity
National
Archives: Caring for your family archives
http://www.archives.gov/preservation/family-archives/
American
Institute for Conservation of Historic and Artistic Works (AIC)
http://aic.stanford.edu/library/online/brochures/
ICPC:
Iowa Conservation and Preservation
ConsortiumTip Sheets
http://web.grinnell.edu/individuals/stuhrr/icpc/tipsheet.html
CoOL:
Conservation OnLine resources for professionals
http://cool-palimpsest.stanford.edu/
ReCollections:
Caring for Collections Across Australia